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Different....

I would not run 2" single shocks at anything less than 200. The extra pressure is helping the oil more than anything else. We can revalve it for many different gains though depending on what you are looking for. But, I still wouldnt be telling you to run 150 psi. Happy to help, just let me know.

Holy shiat, I was gonna bad mouth them because of the cost of steel-it. But then I did a search and found the price has almost doubled since the last time I bought it. Everything else seems fair

Shockseals.com is the best price you are going to get for the seals. blue on the thing Alan put which you can order from Kartek. aluminum angle cut to the size of your vise jaws is all you need for soft jaws. If you still have the Evo valving, I highly doubt you cracked any shims because they are heavy. make sure you get all the air out humanly possible (not how yours were new) and you should be a lot better. (Don’t follow the king or fox YouTube videos) Honestly, every “new” shock I have taken apart in the past decade atleast has air on the wrong side. Every bit of air on the oil side shortens the life of the oil and makes the shock work less efficient. another tool you will need is a t bar a little longer than your reservoirs with a 1/4” coarse thread bolt welded to the end of it.

Helpful advise when you replace the oil filter/cooler housing. Ditch the factory compression clamp on the water line and replace it with a real hose clamp. I didn’t and ended up having to take everything back apart to find coolant leak. That was the culprit. But knock on wood, check engine light hasn’t come back on so far and jeepjeep seems to be running much better. Also found in the process that someone else had been under the manifold and when they put it back together they some how screwed up the rear upper manifold bolt and it wasn’t going through the right hole or holding the plenums together properly. Took some work but got that fixed too.

Also if you’re a dumbass, make sure the opposite hub is also locked when you’re checking to make sure you put the side you worked on back together right. Otherwise you might take it back apart and try to figure out what you did wrong before realizing the problem isn’t a problem!

Depends on the preload you have, if you don’t have any, then lighter rate, if you have a bunch, then stiffer rate.

Thank the good lord baby Jesus that Autozone is open till 8 Christmas Eve! Ever since put the Dana 60s I have had a squeal when backing up and occasionally in turns. But since this year has been crazy busy and haven’t had any time to take the jeep out, I haven’t bothered to investigate. Well, leaving Monday morning for week long trip and tonight I got around to checking hubs and SUPRISE, driver side was loose and of course I didn’t have socket at home. Autozone to the rescue, 13 dollar socket and now it’s golden!

If that doesn’t make sense let me know and I’ll figure out a better way to put it.

Short answer… yes. There is very little tune ability for the secondaries when the cancel out ring is so far down. With the 12s there isn’t enough wheel travel between cancel outs engaging and bump stops. That prevents some ability of progressive bottom control to work. When bump stops and secondary spring rate kicks in basically at the same time it makes spike in resistance vs ramp.

Before I switched to the 60s and had to redo lower mounts, My jeep was pretty happy with 250/275 in the front and 300/250 in the rear. I went with 300 over 250 in the rear because I needed the extra spring for ride height but did not want the extra spring when bottoming. Now that I have moved the lower shock mounts I am going to go to 250/250 in the front and 275/250 in the rear most likely because I have zero preload on the driverside and it is a little on the stiff side for me.

Forgot about how that mounts in the middle. I can loan you a spring to cycle and see

SORRY!! I have been a little busy for the past few months and havent had time get on here. #1- I generally would never mix rates side to side. That will cause some ride issues that can never really be corrected. With C/Os you can add the extra preload to the passenger side to get the ride hieght pretty leve and then adjust cancel out rings to get the final ride nice. If you run different springs side to side it is always going to have a side kick when engaging the single rate as speed. #2- Have found personally that 10" over 14" in the front and 10" over 12" in the rear seems to make the best combo for tuneability #3- I would not go above a 300lbs rate on any corner of a jk unless it was extremely loaded #4- In the "ideal" world you have 1-2" of preload at full droop on your springs. That is the measurement of how much you springs combined are compressed and not just how far the preload nut is turned down. #5- Eibach is a Much better spring. I love Kings and have been friends with Brett for a couple decades, but I choose Eibach over the others because have good experience with them and usually can get them same or next day. #6- Charge your shocks min 150psi but 200-225 is better if really going to use them

I have seen a couple JKs running the DTD kit but just using a 2.5 c/o and no bypass.

Thanks guys!