Regearing

[Dave]

I'm considering putting 5.13 gears in.  I bought some used ATX slabs and they came with 37s that have a bit of tread left.  I had planned to just put new 35s on the wheels and roll with it but I kind of like the look of the 37s.  My 4.10 gears aren't cutting it with the 37s though.

 

Any gear brands that are recommended, any to avoid.  Crush sleeve or crush sleeve eliminators?

 

Please share your experiences / thoughts.

[fiend]

I regeared to 5.13s with Yukon gears years ago. I set them up myself and I haven’t had any issues with them. 
 

I’m  currently building a set of axles and will be using Yukon 5.38s.  I just set up the rear yesterday in my 14 Bolt but it’ll be a while before the axles are in the Jeep and able to be broken in with driving.  So I can’t say much about them at this point. 
 

The new set said “made in China” on the box, to the extent that matters to you.  I believe the first set I bought, for the 44s, was made in India. 

[Dave]

Looks like Yukon Gear kits are in stock at Northridge.

 

Did you use crush sleeves or eliminators?  

 

As far as China, that's the way things are these days.  China is capable of making good stuff if the client company enforces quality control.  Some do & some don't.

 

 

[fiend]

31 minutes ago, Dave said:

Looks like Yukon Gear kits are in stock at Northridge.

 

Did you use crush sleeves or eliminators?  

 

As far as China, that's the way things are these days.  China is capable of making good stuff if the client company enforces quality control.  Some do & some don't.

 

 

For the 44s I used crush sleeves. For the 14 Bolt I used shims.  I am fairly sure that the kits come with sleeves, so if you want to use shims you need to buy them separately.  That was how it was with the 14 Bolt, anyway. 

[Guest]

I used Dana Spicer gears 5.13s and the crush sleeve eliminators, haven't got the axle installed yet, but watched a friend set them up. Looked pretty easy, long as you got the tools.  East Coast Gear Supply was quick and helpful.

[Jdofmemi]

The solid sleeve and shims is a PITA to set up, but that's how every set of gears I get will be.

 

I've personally had too many problems with crush sleeves, and those all stopped when I went with solid sleeves and shims. 

[fiend]

30 minutes ago, Jdofmemi said:

The solid sleeve and shims is a PITA to set up, but that's how every set of gears I get will be.

 

I've personally had too many problems with crush sleeves, and those all stopped when I went with solid sleeves and shims. 

When I set up my 44s with the crush sleeves it went smoothly, although i did have to buy a stronger impact wrench. I later helped a buddy with a pretty much identical set up and we found it to be impossible to crush the sleeve, no matter what we tried.   Very frustrating.  

[AJK]

Wheels and tries look great Dave. For Gears Yukon or Revolution and I like the idea of the crush washer delete.

[Redline]

Crush spacer and shims IMO is the way to go. Crush sleeves have multiple ways they can cause problems. 1- a hard enough load can actually cause it to crush a little more, causing insufficient preload, 2- if you need to replace pinion seal, technically you need a new crush sleeve, 3- change yoke , technically you need a new crush sleeve.  If you’re out on the trail or  a trip and 2 or 3 happen to you, you’re screwed without a spare. If you have the crush spacer/shims setup, all you need is an impact and some loctite until you get home and can torque it. 
 

As for gears 5:13 for 37s IMO and Yukon or Richmond gears are the best affordable.

[Dave]

59 minutes ago, AxK said:

Wheels and tries look great Dave. For Gears Yukon or Revolution and I like the idea of the crush washer delete.

Thanks.  Now, I wish I had bought your take off axles last year.

[AJK]

Jerry has a set coming up for sale.

[Dave]

45 minutes ago, AxK said:

Jerry has a set coming up for sale.

I know.  But I think they're too wide with my wheels and short wheelbase.

[BaddestCross]

Went with Yukon and the rear went bad twice. Maybe it was the installer, but

 

When Jerry installed my rear set I bought Revolutions and we installed the eliminator kit. Major pain, but I think it's a more solid setup for all the reasons listed above.

 

You'll love 5.13s

[Jdofmemi]

3 hours ago, Dave said:

I know.  But I think they're too wide with my wheels and short wheelbase.

There's no such thing as too wide. 

 

And, I ran them with 3.5" BS wheels, so....

[Dave]

Haha.  Yeah for rollover stability, and looks if you're into that.  Fitting between obstacles & highway speed stability another matter.  3 wider on a 95" wb is a pretty big change.  I'm not looking to do a stretch anytime soon. 

[fiend]

3 hours ago, Dave said:

Haha.  Yeah for rollover stability, and looks if you're into that.  Fitting between obstacles & highway speed stability another matter.  3 wider on a 95" wb is a pretty big change.  I'm not looking to do a stretch anytime soon. 

My set will be available in a few months, if you’re not in a hurry.  PR44 front with Rancho knuckles, ProSteer BJs, Currie tie rod. Rear is stock Rubicon 44.  Chromoly shafts and TF big brakes front and rear. Rear has an AEV skid plate.  5.13 gears. 

[AJK]

On snaps,,,, Axles getting thrown around here all over the place NICE!

[Dave]

4 hours ago, fiend said:

My set will be available in a few months, if you’re not in a hurry.  PR44 front with Rancho knuckles, ProSteer BJs, Currie tie rod. Rear is stock Rubicon 44.  Chromoly shafts and TF big brakes front and rear. Rear has an AEV skid plate.  5.13 gears. 

Interested.  I don't do anything in a hurry anymore.  A few months though?

Does the PSC cylinder go with the axle too?  

[fiend]

Just now, Dave said:

Interested.  I don't do anything in a hurry anymore.  A few months though?

Does the PSC cylinder go with the axle too?  

Yeah it’s going to be a few months unless something changes and I get a lot more time to work on the axle build.
 

The cylinder will be included if I need to get a longer one for the Dana 60, which I probably will. I’d also throw in my Synergy drag link. 

[Dave]

Fingers crossed you don't break the PR44 in the mean time.

[fiend]

14 minutes ago, Dave said:

Fingers crossed you don't break the PR44 in the mean time.

Haha.  Jerry, maybe. Me? Unlikely. 

[Jetlau3]

Damn Dave . You and I eyeing the same axles .  I haven’t been able to get anything Jeep related done recently .  Getting my half doors painted at the shop at work next week so that’s progress . Jerry and Greer.. I’m still interested in the axles 

[Dave]

A few more questions on this topic. 

Do you guys use a pinion depth measurement tool when setting pinion depth or just start with the old shim and then check the backlash & pattern. 

Do you make setup bearings or press the bearing on & off when setting pinion depth?

Regarding comments above on the pita of using crush sleeve eliminator, really how many iterations of shim trials does it take?  Has anyone ever setup initially with a crush sleeve, then disassemble and measure the crush sleeve length, then match the spacer and shims?

[BaddestCross]

5 hours ago, Dave said:

A few more questions on this topic. 

Do you guys use a pinion depth measurement tool when setting pinion depth or just start with the old shim and then check the backlash & pattern. 

Do you make setup bearings or press the bearing on & off when setting pinion depth?

Regarding comments above on the pita of using crush sleeve eliminator, really how many iterations of shim trials does it take?  Has anyone ever setup initially with a crush sleeve, then disassemble and measure the crush sleeve length, then match the spacer and shims?

 

We used a setup bearing we made out of the old bearing if I remember correctly. Took 8 times to get it setup.

 

[Jdofmemi]

18 minutes ago, BaddestCross said:

 

We used a setup bearing we made out of the old bearing if I remember correctly. Took 8 times to get it setup.

 

This

 

And, get a regular but in the correct size, or the crush nut can gall the threads. 

 

Also, we just went off of the old set up, and adjusted from there. 

 

Using the crush sleeve to establish the amount of shim needed sounds like a good idea. We didn't, but I can see how that may have reduced the number of tries to get it right.