Regearing

[fiend]

8 hours ago, Dave said:

A few more questions on this topic. 

Do you guys use a pinion depth measurement tool when setting pinion depth or just start with the old shim and then check the backlash & pattern. 

Do you make setup bearings or press the bearing on & off when setting pinion depth?

Regarding comments above on the pita of using crush sleeve eliminator, really how many iterations of shim trials does it take?  Has anyone ever setup initially with a crush sleeve, then disassemble and measure the crush sleeve length, then match the spacer and shims?

I would just start with the old shim as a baseline.  A set up bearing is easier. You can buy one or hone out your old bearing, if you got it off without damage. If you have a clam shell type bearing removal tool, taking a new bearing on and off isn’t bad.  Regarding the crush sleeve eliminator, I just used one on my 14 bolt. I measured the used crush sleeve that came out of it and added about .002-.003 to that as a start. That helped. I think I did 2-3 iterations before I was satisfied.

[AJK]

So I am considering taking on and setting up the new locker and gears myself. I have this urge to pull the front locker and sell both Elockers and go ARB's. I am figuring if I buy the tools they pay for themself first go around. What are the main tools you guys would suggest?

[BaddestCross]

39 minutes ago, AxK said:

So I am considering taking on and setting up the new locker and gears myself. I have this urge to pull the front locker and sell both Elockers and go ARB's. I am figuring if I buy the tools they pay for themself first go around. What are the main tools you guys would suggest?

 

Jerry or Greer

[fiend]

Depending on what exactly you have in mind (e.g., installing new bearings or using old bearings), basics  beyond regular tools include a press, a bearing puller (clam shell style), digital calipers, dial indicator with magnetic base, and a bronze cup setter/remover. A seal driver set can be useful as well.

When I did my 44s, with the OE E-lockers, I did not use a case spreader.  Didn’t seem to be necessary, and I haven’t had issues.  But ARB says a lot of air leak problems people might have come from not using a case spreader to get enough carrier bearing preload. So consider getting a case spreader. Just beware, the cheap made in a China case spreader you see on Amazon and EBay is too small for a Dana 60, despite the product description saying it will work. 

[AJK]

22 minutes ago, fiend said:

Depending on what exactly you have in mind (e.g., installing new bearings or using old bearings), basics  beyond regular tools include a press, a bearing puller (clam shell style), digital calipers, dial indicator with magnetic base, and a bronze cup setter/remover. A seal driver set can be useful as well.

When I did my 44s, with the OE E-lockers, I did not use a case spreader.  Didn’t seem to be necessary, and I haven’t had issues.  But ARB says a lot of air leak problems people might have come from not using a case spreader to get enough carrier bearing preload. So consider getting a case spreader. Just beware, the cheap made in a China case spreader you see on Amazon and EBay is too small for a Dana 60, despite the product description saying it will work. 

Ok. That's great information on the case spreader that makes a lot of sense. I looked at the clamshell but my god 300-plus bucks for the Nitro or Yukon one seemed expensive. I found other ones on Amazon for less than 200. I've been wanting a press so I started looking at a shop press last night and it looks like you do everything you need with certain attachment.

[fiend]

It looks to me like the Yukon and Nitro bearing pullers are just rebrands of the same set you can get for less money. I bought the GXL for about $150, but this one is even cheaper and looks to be identical:

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09RHXDMBP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_RX5M7GS7KMP207V8NXV5

 

For the cup setter, I have this: https://www.yukongear.com/shop/yt-p21.  It is spendy for a peice of metal, but I’ve found it to be very useful. 
 

One thing I forgot. You also will want a tool to check pinion bearing preload. There are fancy expensive ones, but you can also use one of these:

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FMXEWQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_F58MYTGC2RM2ZEHERQ8W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[AJK]

41 minutes ago, fiend said:

It looks to me like the Yukon and Nitro bearing pullers are just rebrands of the same set you can get for less money. I bought the GXL for about $150, but this one is even cheaper and looks to be identical:

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09RHXDMBP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_RX5M7GS7KMP207V8NXV5

 

For the cup setter, I have this: https://www.yukongear.com/shop/yt-p21.  It is spendy for a peice of metal, but I’ve found it to be very useful. 
 

One thing I forgot. You also will want a tool to check pinion bearing preload. There are fancy expensive ones, but you can also use one of these:

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FMXEWQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_F58MYTGC2RM2ZEHERQ8W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

Thank you. Did you get a seal and race setting kit or did you just use the brass punch to set everything.  Also do you have a shop press?

[fiend]

I got a seal kit and 12 ton press from harbor freight. For setting races I’ve found that the bronze punch works best. 
 

If you’re going to do this project in the next couple of weeks you can borrow my tools. I won’t be using them this weekend or next. 

[AJK]

On 3/16/2022 at 9:32 AM, fiend said:

I got a seal kit and 12 ton press from harbor freight. For setting races I’ve found that the bronze punch works best. 
 

If you’re going to do this project in the next couple of weeks you can borrow my tools. I won’t be using them this weekend or next. 

I really appreciate that Greer. I have all the parts in my basket right now plus looking at the 20ton press from Harbor Freight.

 

I'm going to try to reach out to another gear guy and see what he charges me. If I could get it close to what I would pay in tools I might just pay someone to do it so I can throw the axles up for sale and buy what I should have from the start.

[fiend]

Ok just let me know. BTW, I do have a case spreader. I bought one of those eBay ones, which arrived damaged.  I cut a deal with the reseller to get most of my money back, and I kept the damaged tool. I was able to fix it and also modify it to work with a Dana 60. 

[AJK]

4 minutes ago, fiend said:

Ok just let me know. BTW, I do have a case spreader. I bought one of those eBay ones, which arrived damaged.  I cut a deal with the reseller to get most of my money back, and I kept the damaged tool. I was able to fix it and also modify it to work with a Dana 60. 

Well that worked out. Thanks Greer.

[Dave]

Alan, I bought a dial torque wrench when I changed yokes and wanted to check pinion preload before & after.  You're welcome to borrow it.  

They're alot more spendy now than when I bought it.

CDI 751LDINSS Torque 1/4-Inch Drive Dial Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00461AZ7C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_4AWXPKFNWW466BH13CXJ?psc=1

[AJK]

2 hours ago, Dave said:

Alan, I bought a dial torque wrench when I changed yokes and wanted to check pinion preload before & after.  You're welcome to borrow it.  

They're alot more spendy now than when I bought it.

CDI 751LDINSS Torque 1/4-Inch Drive Dial Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00461AZ7C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_4AWXPKFNWW466BH13CXJ?psc=1

Ohhh that's a nice one Dave I do appreciate the offer.  With gas being 6 bucks a gallon it probably cost me the same to come pick it up versus buying one lol. I have one of those $30 ones in the cart from Amazon.

 

I called for a price and was quoted almost 900 for Yukon gears and bearings set. I need to do a little bit more research before I purchase that even with the slight chip in the ring gear I'm considering just reinstalling it.

 

[Dave]

I think it'll fit in a priority mail box.  Let me know.

[Jdofmemi]

47 minutes ago, AxK said:

Ohhh that's a nice one Dave I do appreciate the offer.  With gas being 6 bucks a gallon it probably cost me the same to come pick it up versus buying one lol. I have one of those $30 ones in the cart from Amazon.

 

I called for a price and was quoted almost 900 for Yukon gears and bearings set. I need to do a little bit more research before I purchase that even with the slight chip in the ring gear I'm considering just reinstalling it.

 

What I seen 8n the picture of the chip, I would consider running it. I don't think it was on the wear surface. 

 

As long as you can make sure it doesn't have a rough spot contacting, it should live. 

 

I've had good luck doing that before. 

[AJK]

On 3/16/2022 at 8:02 AM, fiend said:

Depending on what exactly you have in mind (e.g., installing new bearings or using old bearings), basics  beyond regular tools include a press, a bearing puller (clam shell style), digital calipers, dial indicator with magnetic base, and a bronze cup setter/remover. A seal driver set can be useful as well.

When I did my 44s, with the OE E-lockers, I did not use a case spreader.  Didn’t seem to be necessary, and I haven’t had issues.  But ARB says a lot of air leak problems people might have come from not using a case spreader to get enough carrier bearing preload. So consider getting a case spreader. Just beware, the cheap made in a China case spreader you see on Amazon and EBay is too small for a Dana 60, despite the product description saying it will work. 

Going back to the case spreader that would make a lot of sense of why Northridge was saying the UDs were having an air leak. When I pulled my carrier the other day it took zero effort, it just popped right out by hand no tools needed. I'm betting with as many as they make they know an acceptable setup and just throw together, check pattern, and call it good as long as it within their specs.

[Jdofmemi]

I'm surprised it came out easy. All of the ones I have had out take a bit of effort to get out. Even more to put back in. 

 

Alan 

Be sure to save your old bearings. Mic them to compare to new, and grind the I side slightly so they will slip 9n for use as set up bearings. It will make the process a lot easier, and less risk pressing and pulling the new bearings to get the set up right. 

 

 

[AJK]

4 hours ago, Jdofmemi said:

I'm surprised it came out easy. All of the ones I have had out take a bit of effort to get out. Even more to put back in. 

 

Alan 

Be sure to save your old bearings. Mic them to compare to new, and grind the I side slightly so they will slip 9n for use as set up bearings. It will make the process a lot easier, and less risk pressing and pulling the new bearings to get the set up right. 

 

 

Yeah thats my plan and thank you for looking out. It's funny the shims that are on there now are the exact shims they sent so I believe my theory of them having a general setup is true. So I'm just going to put everything back exactly like I pulled it out and see what the pattern looks like.

 

I was able to press out the pinion no problem with the new press but the carrier just doesn't fit in there. I ordered a case spreader a clamshell remover and a few other things. The cheapest quote I got was $1,100 and that was just in labor, so I'm going to be way under that investing in all these tools.

 

I cracked open the locker today to get a good inside look. I expected something like this on my Dana 44 I never expected this on the 60 LOL.

 

 

[fiend]

That is just unacceptable given how Dana markets that axle.

[Crawl2Camp]

3 hours ago, fiend said:

That is just unacceptable given how Dana markets that axle.

 

 

 

[fiend]

On 3/19/2022 at 8:02 AM, AxK said:

Going back to the case spreader that would make a lot of sense of why Northridge was saying the UDs were having an air leak. When I pulled my carrier the other day it took zero effort, it just popped right out by hand no tools needed. I'm betting with as many as they make they know an acceptable setup and just throw together, check pattern, and call it good as long as it within their specs.

Lite bright has a video interview with an ARB guy where he explains how insufficient carrier bearing preload can lead to air leaks.  Not an issue with e lockers, but regardless, your carrier should in tight enough that you need a pry bar to get it out. 

[AJK]

1 hour ago, fiend said:

Lite bright has a video interview with an ARB guy where he explains how insufficient carrier bearing preload can lead to air leaks.  Not an issue with e lockers, but regardless, your carrier should in tight enough that you need a pry bar to get it out. 

I'll go give it a search. I had a moment yesterday and almost ordered two new ARBs.

[AJK]

4 hours ago, fiend said:

Lite bright has a video interview with an ARB guy where he explains how insufficient carrier bearing preload can lead to air leaks.  Not an issue with e lockers, but regardless, your carrier should in tight enough that you need a pry bar to get it out. 

One of the more educational videos I have seen in a while. Really details the locker and issues.

[fiend]

3 hours ago, AxK said:

I'll go give it a search. I had a moment yesterday and almost ordered two new ARBs.

If you’re selling the axles don’t bother. Just put the new e locker in and post them up for sale. 

[fiend]

34 minutes ago, AxK said:

One of the more educational videos I have seen in a while. Really details the locker and issues.

I thought it was interesting.  Who knows if it’s true, but I bought it enough to get a case spreader for my project.