Nice Little Jeep

[Jdofmemi]

7 hours ago, Nice Little Jeep said:

You can’t see the picture it’s grainy?

I was thinking that was the point

[Gruff]

2 hours ago, Jdofmemi said:

I was thinking that was the point

 

lol, i was thinking maybe, possibly that was a little shade being thrown.....

[Nice Little Jeep]

7 hours ago, Gruff said:

 

Oddly enough I can read it fine on my office screen - I was looking at it on my laptop & couldn't read it at all. I enlarged it and it went totally south.

 

Operator error I'm sure!

the same thing for me as long as I click on it, it becomes clear, not sure.

[Nice Little Jeep]

Well, I got my coilovers back, they are rebuilt and valved for my driving style. I’m sharing with you right now the difference between a standard 12” coilover and the EVO bolt on coilovers. If I miss something or leave out something, I apologize.

 

Let’s start with the rear, because they are the least, modified:

Start with the specs of a piggyback king coilover:

 

:

A 10” extended length is 27.05” and a 12” extended length is 31.585.

The EVO rear coilovers fall in between these two dimensions at 28.25” making them not a true 10” nor a 12”.

The travel length is an 11 inch which should be one of the two a 10 or a 12.
 

Where this makes a difference is in the coil springs you can’t put two 12s or you can’t put two 10s. I ended up putting two 12s and the rear worked but it was binding at full compression.

 

The end result I need a 10 and 12. I’m installed a 10-250 on the top and  a 12-300 on the bottom. This should fix my binding issue and give me a really good ride in the rear.
 

Let’s move to the front that’s where the major modification is and you can screw things up!! I did. Start with the specs on a reservoir coilover.

Again

A 10” extended length is 27.05” and a 12” extended length is 31.585.

The EVO front coilovers fall in between these two dimensions at 30.5 making them not a true 10” nor a 12”.  Now the difference is really only about 1” for the front.

 

The travel length on these are 12 inches 

 

The major difference is in the body and the transfer rings. The coilovers that come from EVO with two 12” springs. Making the transfer rings have no adjustment.

Now the coilover on the right is off of vengeance, front coilover, we set these up for vengeance ride height. If you see the transfer rings lineup perfectly with the bottom line up.

 

This portion just looks way more than an inch, that’s why the coil over on the left can’t handle a 14” and 12” springs.
when you get a tape measure on the overall the coilover is about 1” difference.

 

Now to get the transfer rings to work and be adjustable, remove the 12” spring on the bottom, install 14” spring on the bottom, remove the top 12” spring and Install a 10” spring on the top. What I learned in this process is that the magic number is 24” overall spring length.
 

Where a real 12” coilover (on the right) can handle a 14” spring on the bottom and a 12” spring on the top and not bind. That tells me there is a 2” design difference between the two coilovers in the body of the coilovers.


 

The front coilovers that are going back on my jeep, will have a 10-250 on top and a 14-300 on the bottom.

 

I like custom built products, but I want standard coilovers with custom valving. I will be changing out this EVO bolt on coilover kit in the future and Installing a weld on coilover kit with true 12” coilovers.

 

 

 

[Dave]

That's a good explanation.   What is the issue with the EVO bolt on towers?  Can you not run standard 12 coilovers with them?

[Nice Little Jeep]

On 1/13/2024 at 8:27 AM, Dave said:

That's a good explanation.   What is the issue with the EVO bolt on towers?  Can you not run standard 12 coilovers with them?

thank you 
The only problems I see with the EVO bolt on towers is the axle needs to be held back so the coilover springs doesn’t rub the inside of the towers. Even with the current coilovers if you move the axle too far forward, it will rub the coilover springs on the towers at full flex.

If you install longer coilovers, the springs will rub sooner, so you really need to hold back the front axle. After finding the problems with the coilovers and the tower situation, I’m gonna move on from this kit.

Everybody has an opinion, but at this point I’m liking the Accutune weld on bracket kit. the system has the same geometry, with the exception that you can get a 2.5 standard 12” coilover and you can move the axle forward. Then you have more clearance for bigger tires. But at the end of the day, Accutune is still a stock modified suspension system. 
 

If you want that elite suspension Rock Krawler suspension, Krash fab, and GenRight. I think they have the best complete systems at this point. These companies have great customer service and support, but you gotta do their complete system not 50-50. So that’s my thoughts.

 

 

[AJK]

I'd figure you would be going with the Krash Fab kit?  I had a good conversation with him the other day and he explained how you can do front and rear separately.

 

Regardless, you are on point about getting rid of the Evo bracket it does hinder pretty bad.

 

Are you considering redoing the rear end with their brackets as well and running a 12-in coilover back there or keeping the Evo rear?

[Nice Little Jeep]

9 hours ago, AJK said:

I'd figure you would be going with the Krash Fab kit?  I had a good conversation with him the other day and he explained how you can do front and rear separately.

 

Regardless, you are on point about getting rid of the Evo bracket it does hinder pretty bad.

 

Are you considering redoing the rear end with their brackets as well and running a 12-in coilover back there or keeping the Evo rear?

This Jeep, I’m staying with the stock modified system, which I will more than likely go with Accutune system.

 

If I change my mind and not stay with the stock modified system, I would buy another frame and build a Genright system. Then I would sell this current setup as a rolling chassis.

 

My plan is to build an LJ like Andrews.

[Nice Little Jeep]

The new spring combination on the coilovers worked really good for ride Height. Now I need to go out to see how the new spring combination and valving work Off-Road. 

 

[Nice Little Jeep]

On 1/15/2024 at 7:11 PM, Nice Little Jeep said:

This Jeep, I’m staying with the stock modified system, which I will more than likely go with Accutune system.

 

If I change my mind and not stay with the stock modified system, I would buy another frame and build a Genright system. Then I would sell this current setup as a rolling chassis.

 

My plan is to build an LJ like Andrews.

Accutune coilover suspension system for a stock modified system. 
 

what the kit comes with:

 

look real close to the front tower brackets they give more room for the coilover to flex forward.

look a the EVO Bolton kit:

 

the reasons why I’m going in this direction:

1. Able to move the axle forward without the coilovers rubbing the mounting brackets.

2. Able to install 2.5 coilovers 

3. have weld on brackets instead of Bolton.

 

I will post for the rear system on a separate post. I don’t have good EVO rear Bolton coilover bracelet pictures to explain my findings.

[Nice Little Jeep]

Accutune coilover suspension system for a stock modified system.

 

The rear Accutune kit gives an 1-1/2” to 2” of shock travel because you cut out the existing bracket and weld in their bracket.

 

EVO’s Bolt on kit puts a bracket on top of the stock bracket. Not a bad design just one that limits the coilover that can be installed without raising the vehicle another 2 inches. 

That’s why these coilovers are a Frankenstein coilover being a 11 inch coilovers.  
 

 

The reasons why I’m going in this direction:

1. Able to put real 12” coilovers with reservoirs, not piggy back Reservoirs.

2. Able to install 2.5 coilovers 

3. weld on brackets instead of Bolt on.

 

again, If you want that elite suspension; Rock Krawler suspension, Krash fab, and GenRight off-road, have the best complete systems at this point. These companies have great customer service and support, but you gotta do their complete system not 50-50. So that’s my thoughts.

[Nice Little Jeep]

Well, last couple years, I’ve had an increasing leak on the passenger side, all the forums indicate the door seals are the corporate. Mine was up in the right corner dripping down the door trim. not until my neighbor came over and I took apart all the panels as he poured water over the corner. I had a flashlight I could see the water coming from behind the Freedom top seal that runs across the windshield.

 

 

I removed both Freedom tops and inspected the seal, going across the windshield. right at this corner I could stick my finger between the windshield frame and seal. I was able to see where the water was flowing past that seal, and down in and into the Jeep.

 

 

once the sealant sets up, I’ll clean up the extra material. What a good find, I didn’t want to spend money on door seals.

 

[Nice Little Jeep]

23 hours ago, Nice Little Jeep said:

Well, last couple years, I’ve had an increasing leak on the passenger side, all the forums indicate the door seals are the corporate. Mine was up in the right corner dripping down the door trim. not until my neighbor came over and I took apart all the panels as he poured water over the corner. I had a flashlight I could see the water coming from behind the Freedom top seal that runs across the windshield.

 

 

I removed both Freedom tops and inspected the seal, going across the windshield. right at this corner I could stick my finger between the windshield frame and seal. I was able to see where the water was flowing past that seal, and down in and into the Jeep.

 

 

once the sealant sets up, I’ll clean up the extra material. What a good find, I didn’t want to spend money on door seals.

 

water on the outside

 

Not on the inside

[Nice Little Jeep]

[Nice Little Jeep]

Installing the rearview camera kit from Wolfbox G850, so I can see past that 40” tire.

What’s cool it has a splice for my license plate mount that’s nice.

works good with the license plate, now the work starts

[Jdofmemi]

Nice that it comes with a connection there so it's easy to remove the tire when needed

[Nice Little Jeep]

On 1/21/2024 at 6:58 PM, Nice Little Jeep said:

Accutune coilover suspension system for a stock modified system.

 

The rear Accutune kit gives an 1-1/2” to 2” of shock travel because you cut out the existing bracket and weld in their bracket.

 

EVO’s Bolt on kit puts a bracket on top of the stock bracket. Not a bad design just one that limits the coilover that can be installed without raising the vehicle another 2 inches. 

That’s why these coilovers are a Frankenstein coilover being a 11 inch coilovers.  
 

 

The reasons why I’m going in this direction:

1. Able to put real 12” coilovers with reservoirs, not piggy back Reservoirs.

2. Able to install 2.5 coilovers 

3. weld on brackets instead of Bolt on.

 

again, If you want that elite suspension; Rock Krawler suspension, Krash fab, and GenRight off-road, have the best complete systems at this point. These companies have great customer service and support, but you gotta do their complete system not 50-50. So that’s my thoughts.

Great complete kit, great customer service.

for me all other kit manufacturers are out of the picture for now. This doesn’t include Krash Fab and GenRight off-road their on a total different level.

[Nice Little Jeep]

On 1/15/2024 at 7:21 PM, Nice Little Jeep said:

The new spring combination on the coilovers worked really good for ride Height. Now I need to go out to see how the new spring combination and valving work Off-Road. 

 

Well, doing some flexing with the new coil-over setup. I was not happy with the rear springs. The rear was real stiff. I changed the rear bottom spring to 12-250.
My current spring configuration:

10-250 top, 12-250 bottom. 
I just changed out the bottom from a 300 to a 250. Readjusted all my ride heights first then changed my transfer rings.

my transfer rings are set at 1/2”, with rear air bumps. If you don’t have rear air bumps, your transfer rings can be set with a different spacing.

i will work through this setup focusing on the front setup.

[Nice Little Jeep]

Front coilover setup:

10/250 over 14/300 preload nut at 1” to snug up springs, the preload on the drivers side is set at 1-1/2”, on passenger side set at 2-1/2”.

That gives the Jeep 5” of up travel before bottoming out the air bumps.

Transfer rings are set at 1”.

 

 

 

Rear coilover setup:

10/250 over 12/250 preload nut at 1” to snug up springs. The preload on the driver side is set at 2-1/8”, on the passenger side 2-5/8”.

That gives the Jeep 5” of up travel before bottoming out the air bumps.

Transfer rings are set at 5/8”.

 

The coil over pressure is at 200lbs all the way around.

The air bumps in the front are set at 200lbs.

The air bumps in the rear are set at 250lbs.

 

 

 

[Nice Little Jeep]

the future track bar design for the Nice Little Jeep!!!

[Nice Little Jeep]

On 5/1/2024 at 10:33 PM, Nice Little Jeep said:

the future track bar design for the Nice Little Jeep!!!

If you’re running these three products for a track bar setup or any of the competitive systems!, you’ve spent about $800 on your front track bar setup. You still have bump steer, your track bar and drag link are not the same length. For about $250 more you can have the GenRight setup!!! Which takes care of all the track bar issues that ALL the aftermarket lift kits do not solve.

 

**** if you found a aftermarket lift kit that addresses the track bar, please let me know because I cannot find it. ******

 

[Nice Little Jeep]

On 5/3/2024 at 10:53 AM, Nice Little Jeep said:

If you’re running these three products for a track bar setup or any of the competitive systems!, you’ve spent about $800 on your front track bar setup. You still have bump steer, your track bar and drag link are not the same length. For about $250 more you can have GenRight setup!!! Which takes care of all the track bar issues that ALL the aftermarket lift kits do not solve.

 

**** if you found a aftermarket lift kit that addresses the track bar, please let me know because I cannot find it. ******

 

The key bracket design to the front track bar from GenRight. Both track bar brackets make the kit. The frame side is standard throughout all the GenRight JK suspension kits.

[Nice Little Jeep]

After Hi Desert Round Up 2024, I reversed some changes that I made to the rear coilovers. 

Rear coilover setup now 6/2/2024

10/250 over 12/300* preload nut at 1/2” to snug up springs.          
 
*(Back to 300)

 

The preload on the driver side is set at 2”:

 

 

The preload on the passenger side 2-1/2”:

 

That gives the Jeep 5” of up travel before bottoming out the air bumps.

Transfer rings are set at 0”.

The reason for the reversal setup is the coil binding seen on the RTramp at Hi Desert Round 2024:

 

 

This gives 1/2”* to 5/8”* more of up travel to the coilovers before the springs will coil bind.
 

*all about the numbers.

These EVO coilovers are not designed correctly. They are Frankenstein coilovers!! They are not standard coilovers!!..

 

I have talked and listened to Tony Pellegrino from GenRight Off-Road and he has given me some great advice. Tony has great knowledge of how to setup coilovers correctly. Tony has helped me through this process and these coilovers are not his product. So to say the least, I have great respect for Tony and GenRight Off-Road.

 

The great news is the valving upgrade to the coilovers held up to the pressure of the Hi Desert Round Up this year.

front setup is correct 

[Nice Little Jeep]

Time to start upgrading my tool and gear system

 

for some of you, you’ve probably never seen my system so I’ll share my current set up.
I started with converting two Justin wine crates into my toolboxes, back in the day my grandfather, would use wooden crates to haul the tools and chainsaw gear. So I created two Justin wine crates into toolboxes to honor my grandfather.

The boxes fit nice with chairs, refrigerator, air compressor, welder and recovery gear. if I was going to just do some basic trail and maintain the adopted a trail stuff the wooden toolboxes would work out great.

After bouncing across the desert during a couple of hard trail trips and realizing that I might need to upgrade these, I waited a little too long; one broke.

this year at Hi Desert Round Up the wood toolbox has seen its time in NLJ. I need to move on and upgrade.

i’ve bought Milwaukee packout gear already and that’s what I keep all the welding gear in already.

 

I removed everything out of the two wood toolboxes into two Milwaukee pack out crates.

 

 

With the packout system, I can adjust my gear based on the trip. For the big trips like Rubicon and Fordyce I’ll pack everything including the welder. But for some of the other trips, I don’t need to pack the welder. example: my family Tahoe trip I don’t need the welder. If my Jeep can’t make a trip like that without being welded, then I didn’t build it right.

NLJ fully loaded, my packout gear:

 

All the tools needed to work on my vehicle*

Highlift Jack

Ax
Shovel

Welder

Welding gear

Grinder (battery)

Impact guns (battery)

Recovery gear

A restroom chair (must have)

Two chairs

A table

fire Extinguishers

Hammock 

First aid kit

Spare parts

Air compressor

Cal4Wheel trasharoo 

And most importantly, a portable bar

 

* Jerry taught me to take my tools out of my Jeep and only use the tools that are in the jeep to work on the jeep then you will know what tools to carry.

 

I might haul more gear than I need, but I’ve been out there where I’ve needed more gear.

 

[AJK]

Jesus....Now I understand why your rear spring rate it so high. Looks nice and organized. I love the pack outs as well. Nice setup you go going on Dennis.