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Bender - 2010 JKUR


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Picked up Bender new in 2010.  Pearl Green JKUR.  My kids and I named him “Bender,” after Steelbender in Moab a few years ago.  Great trip.  

 

Over the years I’ve added a fair amount.  Current specs listed below (sorry for the cut and paste; I couldn’t type all that on my phone).  I’ve done all the work myself, which has kept me busy.  
 

I’m currently building a set of junkyard axles, ‘05+ Super Duty Dana 60 front, ‘00+ 14 Bolt rear.  Picture of the axles as purchased below. Hopefully should have them done in a few months.  Progress is slow because I’m doing all the work and only have weekends for it. 
 

Modifications

Drivetrain:

Rubicrawler doubler; PSC hydraulic assist steering; MOPAR automatic transmission cooler; Dynatrac PR44; Dynatrac ball joints; Rancho knuckles; Synergy drag link; Currie tie rod; Ten Factory chromoly axle shafts front and rear; Teraflex big brakes front and rear; 1350 drive shafts.


Interior:

Rock Hard sport cage with C pillars; Tuffy console and rear security deck; Bartac seat covers; seat heaters front and rear; Uniden CB; underseat mounted ARB twin compressor; Genesis dual battery; Painless Trail Rocker;

 

Exterior:

Genright Bumpers; Poison Spyder corner and rocker armor; Mile Marker hydraulic winch with synthetic rope; Genright tire carrier; Poison Spyder hood louvre; LOD frame mounted sliders; AEV snorkel; MCE fender flares; Rockhard oil pan/transmission skid plate; Rockhard crossmember; AEV rear diff skid; MOPAR half doors; ACE Engineering fender liners


Audio:

Select Increments pods with Kicker speakers and amplifier.


Lighting:

Quadratec LED headlights; Quadratec 6” round spot lights (A pillar) and flood lights (bumper); LED stadium lights; KC Cyclone rock lights; homemade LED whips.

 

Exhaust:

Dynomax rock crawler.

 

Suspension:

Synergy 4.5” lift; Bilstein 5160 shocks; EVO No Limits air activated sway bar disconnect; Metal Cloak bump stops

 

Wheel and Tire:

ATX Chamber Pro II wheels; Nitto Mud Grapplers (37x13.50R17)

 

 

 

F41CFAC7-A451-4F58-B73B-22E4A57E1A01.jpeg

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3 hours ago, AxK said:

Nice. Everytime I see your rig I like your fenders I think it's time I buy a set. Maybe this time they won't be on a 10 month backorder.

Thanks. I’ve been happy with them. They also make a narrow version of the front, which looks pretty cool. 

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6 hours ago, AxK said:

Oh, you doing thrle gears yourself? NICE!

Yep.  I did mine current gears years ago.  It was a project for sure, but it worked out. 

2 hours ago, Weebz said:


Right.  I want some more details please.  

Haha. Read a few web pages, watched a few YouTube videos, made a visit to Harbor Freight, then just went for it.  
 

The 14 bolt is easy.  There are adjusting collars instead of carrier shims.  The pinion preload can be set up with the pinion housing on the work bench.  Pinion depth can be adjusted with one shim that can be swapped without removing any bearings. Easy peasy.  The front Dana 60, on the other hand, has none of these advantages.  It’s gonna be a PITA. 

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That's great Greer. 

 

I was always afraid to do gears, but once you do them yourself, and see the care it takes to get it right, it's hard to trust others to do it. 

 

Another thing, the pros tell you about "All the special tools you need"

 

Turns out they cost about half of what you pay each time someone else does it. It just takes time and patience. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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5 minutes ago, Jdofmemi said:

That's great Greer. 

 

I was always afraid to do gears, but once you do them yourself, and see the care it takes to get it right, it's hard to trust others to do it. 

 

Another thing, the pros tell you about "All the special tools you need"

 

Turns out they cost about half of what you pay each time someone else does it. It just takes time and patience. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah, I have read that a few times as well. IF I need to re-gear I may try it myself and buy all the tools.

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1 hour ago, Jdofmemi said:

That's great Greer. 

 

I was always afraid to do gears, but once you do them yourself, and see the care it takes to get it right, it's hard to trust others to do it. 

 

Another thing, the pros tell you about "All the special tools you need"

 

Turns out they cost about half of what you pay each time someone else does it. It just takes time and patience. 

You do need some tools, but some of them, like calipers and a press, I’ve used a bunch for other things.  This time I did drop a few bucks on a bearing puller, which makes things a lot easier.  

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