Bender - 2010 JKUR

[fiend]

28 minutes ago, AxK said:

Lol.....really? Well gald you got her starting again.

Yeah. Pretty stupid. But it seems to work fine now. Started right up this morning.  So now I can get back to wrapping up the axle swap.  Still need to plumb the air lines for the lockers and adjust the parking brakes. 

[fiend]

Just to close the loop on my electrical “problems,” the Jeep now starts up fine after sitting for a while. So it appears I never had a parasitic draw to begin with.  The main battery (odyssey) was four years old and apparently couldn’t hold a charge. I haven’t had the greatest luck with odyssey batteries, so I just replaced it with a new AGM battery from the local O’reillys. So happy to have the electrical stuff behind me.

[Crawl2Camp]

30 minutes ago, fiend said:

Just to close the loop on my electrical “problems,” the Jeep now starts up fine after sitting for a while. So it appears I never had a parasitic draw to begin with.  The main battery (odyssey) was four years old and apparently couldn’t hold a charge. I haven’t had the greatest luck with odyssey batteries, so I just replaced it with a new AGM battery from the local O’reillys. So happy to have the electrical stuff behind me.

Glad everything is good to go now with the Jeeps electrical.
So when are you hitting the trails with the new setup?  I bet your itching to get out.

[fiend]

13 minutes ago, Crawl2Camp said:

Glad everything is good to go now with the Jeeps electrical.
So when are you hitting the trails with the new setup?  I bet your itching to get out.

Definitely want to get out. Aside from a few minor things, the main task remaining is to plumb the locker air lines. My switch panel is pretty much full, so I either need to find a new place for the locker switches or I need to upgrade to something like the SwitchPros 12.  But I just am having trouble spending that much money on a switch panel. 

[Crawl2Camp]

14 minutes ago, fiend said:

Definitely want to get out. Aside from a few minor things, the main task remaining is to plumb the locker air lines. My switch panel is pretty much full, so I either need to find a new place for the locker switches or I need to upgrade to something like the SwitchPros 12.  But I just am having trouble spending that much money on a switch panel. 

Nice, that shouldn’t be too bad.  Then again it could get pretty involved..  

What switch panel are you currently using in Bender?

Ive been looking at switches also.  I currently have a 4 switch S-Tech setup and will need more also.  They do have an upgrade program where if i send in my 4 switch setup they will sell me their new 10 button compact setup for $260.  I think I'm going to take advantage of that.

https://stechswitch.com/?year_id=191&make=300&model=357&post_type=product&action=vpf-ymm-search

[fiend]

1 hour ago, Crawl2Camp said:

Nice, that shouldn’t be too bad.  Then again it could get pretty involved..  

What switch panel are you currently using in Bender?

Ive been looking at switches also.  I currently have a 4 switch S-Tech setup and will need more also.  They do have an upgrade program where if i send in my 4 switch setup they will sell me their new 10 button compact setup for $260.  I think I'm going to take advantage of that.

https://stechswitch.com/?year_id=191&make=300&model=357&post_type=product&action=vpf-ymm-search

Running the airlines won’t be bad.  The tricky part will be finding space for the solenoids, given that my compressor is under the seat with an air tank and a manifold for my 4 wheel air up system as well as my no limits sway bar thing. So it’s pretty crowded under there.  I also need to find a place for the switches, and do the wiring.  
 

If you can get to 10 for $260, do it. That’s cheap.
 

I have an old school painless trail rocker. It works but there definitely are technologically superior options now.  I’d like to upgrade but don’t really want to do all the work or spend the $1000 for the switchpros. 

[Crawl2Camp]

5 hours ago, fiend said:

Running the airlines won’t be bad.  The tricky part will be finding space for the solenoids, given that my compressor is under the seat with an air tank and a manifold for my 4 wheel air up system as well as my no limits sway bar thing. So it’s pretty crowded under there.  I also need to find a place for the switches, and do the wiring.  

You can move the manifold and solenoids under the hood and then route the lockers from there.  Tony from Innovative told me thats the best option and will make things much easier to run. 

[Jetlau3]

Following this as I also have the innovative kit and will be moving from e to air lockers .  I’m using the apollointech knockoff switch system off Amazon which has surprisingly been without issues for over 4 years but like you I’ve run out of switches .  
 

was considering cutting into the left hand side factory switch panel where the e lockers and the sway bar disconnect are today and installing switches .  I also have a redarc brake controller that I need to find a place to mount . 
 

Got the manifold kit from innovative that seems to go under the seat but haven’t looked at it yet 

[Dave]

11 hours ago, Crawl2Camp said:

You can move the manifold and solenoids under the hood and then route the lockers from there.  Tony from Innovative told me thats the best option and will make things much easier to run. 

How are getting the air from under the seat to under the hood.  Did you put a bulkhead fitting through the floorboard or through the fire wall?  

[Crawl2Camp]

35 minutes ago, Dave said:

How are getting the air from under the seat to under the hood.  Did you put a bulkhead fitting through the floorboard or through the fire wall?  

This is what Tony from Innovative gave me as far as instructions.  He put this kit together for me, as it’s not a standard off the shelf kit he sells. (passenger seat mounted ARB with his air up kit and ARB manifold under the hood with solenoids for lockers). 

 

Ok, thanks.  Most put it over near the brake booster just because of space.

 

For install you will basically follow instructions IJKP-19, except:

1. Install the provided Branch Tee in the compressor
2. 1 ft nylon tubing will go from Branch Tee to passenger seat connection
3. 4 ft nylon tubing will go from Branch Tee to Union Tee under driver seat
4. 1 ft nylon tubing will go from Union Tee to driver seat connection
5. 10 ft nylon tubing will go from Union Tee to ARB manifold under hood (look at IJKP-14 instructions for the method, Step 2-E)

[Crawl2Camp]

Greer hope you don't mind me posting this on your thread.  

[fiend]

21 hours ago, Crawl2Camp said:

Greer hope you don't mind me posting this on your thread.  

No problem.  I think there are lots of ways to setup an air system, including what you suggested.  For me, its a question of finding physical space for everything. I don't really want to put stuff into the engine compartment, which is already pretty full of other things.  It's also hot and dirty.  This weekend I probably will explore what can be done to keep everything in the passenger compartment.

[fiend]

Spent the morning trying to figure out why my left rear tail light wasn’t working. Kept blowing fuses, so a short somewhere. Thought it might be my janky homemade wire harness for the LED lights. Nope. Then I found a wiring diagram and noted that the trailer hitch harness is on the same circuit.  Confirmed my suspicion that the harness got BBQ’d by the aftermarket exhaust. Repaired the damaged sections and rerouted the harness. Lights work again. Yay. 
 

After that, started scoping out where and how to install the locker solenoids.  Thought I might get lucky daisy-chaining them to the sway bar solenoid under the seat. (See pic.). Alas, it’s not going to work.  Just not enough room under the seat for two more solenoids. So I need to think about a plan b. 

[Gruff]

On 7/3/2022 at 10:42 PM, fiend said:

Spent the morning trying to figure out why my left rear tail light wasn’t working. Kept blowing fuses, so a short somewhere. Thought it might be my janky homemade wire harness for the LED lights. Nope. Then I found a wiring diagram and noted that the trailer hitch harness is on the same circuit.  Confirmed my suspicion that the harness got BBQ’d by the aftermarket exhaust. Repaired the damaged sections and rerouted the harness. Lights work again. Yay. 
 

After that, started scoping out where and how to install the locker solenoids.  Thought I might get lucky daisy-chaining them to the sway bar solenoid under the seat. (See pic.). Alas, it’s not going to work.  Just not enough room under the seat for two more solenoids. So I need to think about a plan b. 

 

What is the air tank supplying? Is it just a small reservoir? Without that in there you have lots of room?

 

[fiend]

2 hours ago, Gruff said:

 

What is the air tank supplying? Is it just a small reservoir? Without that in there you have lots of room?

 

The way the set up is plumbed right now, the tank is just supplying the no limits. If I keep it, it will also supply the lockers.  I got the tank for free.  The thought was I could charge up the tank at the start of a run and then not have the compressor cycling on and off all day long. As it has turned out, there are enough small leaks in the system that the compressor cycles on every 10-15 minutes anyway.  I could replace the tank with an ARB manifold and have more room under there. 

[AJK]

6 hours ago, fiend said:

The way the set up is plumbed right now, the tank is just supplying the no limits. If I keep it, it will also supply the lockers.  I got the tank for free.  The thought was I could charge up the tank at the start of a run and then not have the compressor cycling on and off all day long. As it has turned out, there are enough small leaks in the system that the compressor cycles on every 10-15 minutes anyway.  I could replace the tank with an ARB manifold and have more room under there. 

How big is the tank? I get like two on/offs with the built in ARB on the single and then the compressor kicks on for a sec.

[fiend]

26 minutes ago, AxK said:

How big is the tank? I get like two on/offs with the built in ARB on the single and then the compressor kicks on for a sec.

The tank is one gallon. If I could eliminate all the leaks I think it could operate the lockers and sway bar all day long without cycling or maybe cycling rarely. That was my original theory, anyway.  

[AJK]

2 hours ago, fiend said:

The tank is one gallon. If I could eliminate all the leaks I think it could operate the lockers and sway bar all day long without cycling or maybe cycling rarely. That was my original theory, anyway.  

Is it line leek or fitting? I have had good luck with RVT on air fittings.

[fiend]

18 minutes ago, AxK said:

Is it line leek or fitting? I have had good luck with RVT on air fittings.

Leaks are at the fittings. I have tried Teflon tape and also plumbers putty but there’s always little bubbles that form when you spray soapy water on the fittings.  I’ll try RVT. 

[Crawl2Camp]

1 hour ago, fiend said:

Leaks are at the fittings. I have tried Teflon tape and also plumbers putty but there’s always little bubbles that form when you spray soapy water on the fittings.  I’ll try RVT. 

Hope it works out Greer.  You can also try out Loctite 545 if you haven’t already.  It’s specifically formulated for hydraulic and compressed air systems.


Something to look forward to with air lockers I guess.

 

[AJK]

12 hours ago, fiend said:

Leaks are at the fittings. I have tried Teflon tape and also plumbers putty but there’s always little bubbles that form when you spray soapy water on the fittings.  I’ll try RVT. 

Yeah me to. I let the RVT sit and cure for hours before turning air on and so for so good.

[fiend]

12 hours ago, Crawl2Camp said:

Hope it works out Greer.  You can also try out Loctite 545 if you haven’t already.  It’s specifically formulated for hydraulic and compressed air systems.


Something to look forward to with air lockers I guess.

 

Thanks I will take a look at that. 

[fiend]

1 hour ago, AxK said:

Yeah me to. I let the RVT sit and cure for hours before turning air on and so for so good.

Where do you put the RTV? On the threads? Or do you just coat the fitting on the outside?

[AJK]

1 hour ago, fiend said:

Where do you put the RTV? On the threads? Or do you just coat the fitting on the outside?

I put it on the upper 3/4 of the threads. Once it sits flush the rvt makes its own seal around the side of the fitting.

[fiend]

Thanks for the tips fellas. I’m going to try keep the tank and move all the solenoids somewhere else. Perhaps the engine compartment.