Bender - 2010 JKUR

[BaddestCross]

2 hours ago, Jdofmemi said:

What bearing puller did you get?

 

I need to get one, what I got didn't work the best. 

 

You didn't like using your regular press and the plate steel, huh?

[Jdofmemi]

2 hours ago, fiend said:

GXL. Seems to be a knock off of the Yukon model. 
 

GXL Carrier & Pinion Bearing... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6SZ742?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

Thanks. 

 

Have you used it yet?

[Jdofmemi]

2 hours ago, fiend said:

GXL. Seems to be a knock off of the Yukon model. 
 

GXL Carrier & Pinion Bearing... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6SZ742?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

Thanks. 

 

Have you used it yet?

[Jdofmemi]

2 hours ago, fiend said:

GXL. Seems to be a knock off of the Yukon model. 
 

GXL Carrier & Pinion Bearing... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6SZ742?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

Thanks. 

 

Have you used it yet?

[fiend]

1 hour ago, BaddestCross said:

 

You didn't like using your regular press and the plate steel, huh?

I know this is directed to Jerry, but I’ll tell you, I’ve spent a fuckload of time improvising shit because I didn’t have the correct tool.  Perhaps I’m finally seeing the errors of my ways …

[fiend]

55 minutes ago, Jdofmemi said:

 

Thanks. 

 

Have you used it yet?

Couple of times, but not a bunch just yet. For the 14 bolt I’m installing new bearings on a new carrier (arb locker), and the pinion races are removed from the housing with a brass drift not a bearing puller.  So I didn’t need the tool for any of that. I did use it to pull off the old carrier bearings, but just for practice. I expect to use it more with the front axle. After that, it’ll be in my lending library, if you need it.

[Gruff]

9 hours ago, fiend said:

Yep.  I did mine current gears years ago.  It was a project for sure, but it worked out. 

Haha. Read a few web pages, watched a few YouTube videos, made a visit to Harbor Freight, then just went for it.  
 

The 14 bolt is easy.  There are adjusting collars instead of carrier shims.  The pinion preload can be set up with the pinion housing on the work bench.  Pinion depth can be adjusted with one shim that can be swapped without removing any bearings. Easy peasy.  The front Dana 60, on the other hand, has none of these advantages.  It’s gonna be a PITA. 

 

Another reason I'm switching gears and going with the 14b rear. 

[fiend]

8 minutes ago, Gruff said:

 

Another reason I'm switching gears and going with the 14b rear. 

The 14 bolt is stout.  But one major bummer is the lack of any selectable locker other than the ARB. I very much wanted to avoid air lockers, but c’est la vie. 

[Gruff]

Doesn't OX make one for it? 

 

Edit: They do not. Huh. 

[fiend]

7 minutes ago, Gruff said:

Doesn't OX make one for it? 

 

Edit: They do not. Huh. 

There was talk of that, but I haven’t seen one yet. Anyway, I’ve already dropped the coin on the ARB. Hopefully there won’t be any issues with it. 

[Jdofmemi]

8 minutes ago, fiend said:

There was talk of that, but I haven’t seen one yet. Anyway, I’ve already dropped the coin on the ARB. Hopefully there won’t be any issues with it. 

Do you already have the ARB for the 60? I have a brand new one, from the failed attempt to "fix" mine for Fordyce. 

 

[fiend]

17 minutes ago, Jdofmemi said:

Do you already have the ARB for the 60? I have a brand new one, from the failed attempt to "fix" mine for Fordyce. 

 

Yes I have it already. Been sitting in the garage for a couple of months while I’ve been focusing on the rear axle, time permitting. 
 

Is yours for a super duty? 

[Jdofmemi]

It was for my Fusion 60, and it seems like that is based on the Super Duty 60 housing. 

[fiend]

I’d be interested in peoples’ views of the following gear pattern set ups.  There are four sets, with a pair of photos for each. The first photo in each pair is the drive side. The second is the coast side.  Thoughts? Which one looks best to you?  

First:

Second:

Third:

Fourth:

[Weebz]

I am absolutely in no way qualified to answer this but I’m giving my opinion based on crap I’ve seen.   Your first and second look the best to me.  Third and fourth looks too deep from what I have tried to learn.   

[AJK]

1 hour ago, Weebz said:

I am absolutely in no way qualified to answer this but I’m giving my opinion based on crap I’ve seen.   Your first and second look the best to me.  Third and fourth looks too deep from what I have tried to learn.   

I echo Jeff. My professional YouTube eye like the first.

[KevinG]

I was going to say the first and second also.  I am at work and have a gear guy back in the shop if you want a fourth opinion.

[fiend]

27 minutes ago, KevinG said:

I was going to say the first and second also.  I am at work and have a gear guy back in the shop if you want a fourth opinion.

Yeah, if you can get his input I’d appreciate it. Thanks. 

[KevinG]

Yep I will page him to my office so he can see it on here rather than my phone.

[fiend]

13 minutes ago, KevinG said:

Yep I will page him to my office so he can see it on here rather than my phone.

Cool. By the way I shaved this ring gear down from 10.5” to 10”.  About 1/4” in radius.  So if the pattern may not appear centered between heel and toe, that’s one reason. 

[KevinG]

So he was just in here and swore me to secrecy.  He said that if he had the first or third pattern he would run them on a customers axle.  If it were his own R&P he would shoot for the second, but I'm not allowed to talk about fight club.

[fiend]

39 minutes ago, KevinG said:

So he was just in here and swore me to secrecy.  He said that if he had the first or third pattern he would run them on a customers axle.  If it were his own R&P he would shoot for the second, but I'm not allowed to talk about fight club.

So basically he’d be comfortable with any of the first, second, and third? Interesting, because it’s currently set up with the fourth.  

 

The first is with a .014 pinion shim.  So it is the shallowest pinion of the four shown.  That looked too shallow to me (contact patch too close to the face of the gear teeth). 
 

The second is with a .009 shim. That’s the deepest pinion of the four.  That looked too deep to me. Contact patch is unclear and goes nearly all the way to the flank. 
 

The third is with a .012 shim.  That looked ok to me, but maybe still a little shallow. 
 

The fourth is with a .010 shim.  That’s the current set up.  Seemed like the best centered, between face and flank, of the four.   
 

On the 14 bolt it is pretty easy to make changes, so I can keep working on it if necessary.  But I don’t have any shims thinner than .009, and the next thickest one after .014 is .017, which I think would be way too shallow. 
 

 

[KevinG]

We just stole him from Ford, maybe we'll send him back.  He's not going to have any idea what to do when he starts getting in all of these cars that smell like cans of tuna rather than tins of copenhagen.

[Jdofmemi]

4 hours ago, KevinG said:

So he was just in here and swore me to secrecy.  He said that if he had the first or third pattern he would run them on a customers axle.  If it were his own R&P he would shoot for the second, but I'm not allowed to talk about fight club.

My two cents is this:

 

Dealer tech is setting up for a happy customer where 99% of their complaints come from noise. They are dealing with mostly stock applications, where ultimate strength is not an issue. 

 

That's why he's happy to do one or three, the shallower patterns, for a customer. It will be quiet and serviceable in a normal application. It will not be as strong as two or 4, the deeper ones. 

 

A deeper pattern will be slightly louder, which is the trade off for gaining strength, which is the goal in what we do. 

 

That explains his preference for the second one for his own. 

 

The fourth, where you currently have it, seems like a good compromise to me. 

 

It looks good on drive and coast(reverse) and should not be loud. It will be noisier than the dealer preferred setting, but the tire noise will drown it out anyway, and they never fail on the highway. 

 

 

4 hours ago, fiend said:

So basically he’d be comfortable with any of the first, second, and third? Interesting, because it’s currently set up with the fourth.  

 

The first is with a .014 pinion shim.  So it is the shallowest pinion of the four shown.  That looked too shallow to me (contact patch too close to the face of the gear teeth). 
 

The second is with a .009 shim. That’s the deepest pinion of the four.  That looked too deep to me. Contact patch is unclear and goes nearly all the way to the flank. 
 

The third is with a .012 shim.  That looked ok to me, but maybe still a little shallow. 
 

The fourth is with a .010 shim.  That’s the current set up.  Seemed like the best centered, between face and flank, of the four.   
 

On the 14 bolt it is pretty easy to make changes, so I can keep working on it if necessary.  But I don’t have any shims thinner than .009, and the next thickest one after .014 is .017, which I think would be way too shallow. 
 

 

 

[fiend]

11 hours ago, Jdofmemi said:

My two cents is this:

 

Dealer tech is setting up for a happy customer where 99% of their complaints come from noise. They are dealing with mostly stock applications, where ultimate strength is not an issue. 

 

That's why he's happy to do one or three, the shallower patterns, for a customer. It will be quiet and serviceable in a normal application. It will not be as strong as two or 4, the deeper ones. 

 

A deeper pattern will be slightly louder, which is the trade off for gaining strength, which is the goal in what we do. 

 

That explains his preference for the second one for his own. 

 

The fourth, where you currently have it, seems like a good compromise to me. 

 

It looks good on drive and coast(reverse) and should not be loud. It will be noisier than the dealer preferred setting, but the tire noise will drown it out anyway, and they never fail on the highway. 

 

 

 

Thanks Jerry. The Mud Grapplers will drown out any driveline noise, along with everything else.  

 

I’m a little torn between the .010 and .012. I guess it’s one of those things that can always be second guessed.