Bender - 2010 JKUR

[fiend]

1 hour ago, Jdofmemi said:

Glad to hear that you are getting close to the finish line

 

It will be good to get out together again. 

Absolutely. I’m hoping to get in a few local shakedown runs before rubicon/Fordyce.

[fiend]

Couple of photos.  Water on the ground is just a spill. 

[Dave]

It's looking good.  Hope you get all the little bugs worked out soon. 

[fiend]

2 hours ago, Dave said:

It's looking good.  Hope you get all the little bugs worked out soon. 

Thanks Dave. The radio is working again and I fixed the brake lights. Chipping away at it….

[KevinG]

Looks great!  I left a little puddle like that when I knocked myself out under the back of mine....

[Weebz]

6 hours ago, KevinG said:

Looks great!  I left a little puddle like that when I knocked myself out under the back of mine....

Wait what?

[Crawl2Camp]

2 hours ago, Weebz said:

Wait what?

Do we dare ask the contents of the puddle?  

[Crawl2Camp]

Looks great Greer.  Those Reid knuckles are mesmerizing on that 60.

[fiend]

25 minutes ago, Crawl2Camp said:

Do we dare ask the contents of the puddle?  

Haha.  I was topping up the coolant and spilled some. Believe me, I’ve been out checking several times a day looking for leaks. Brake fluid, power steering fluid, gear oil,  etc. Nothing yet.  

[fiend]

25 minutes ago, Crawl2Camp said:

Looks great Greer.  Those Reid knuckles are mesmerizing on that 60.

They are pretty massive. And orange.

[fiend]

Can anyone help with an electrical issue. I’m chasing down a parasitic draw.  If I’m reading the meter correctly, it’s about 2 amps, which seems like a lot. I’ve done the test of putting the meter in series at the ground cable and then pulling fuses one by one to see when the draw goes to zero or at least drops substantially.  I pulled all the fuses and all the relays. No dice; the 2 amp draw didn’t change. So now I’m stumped. Any ideas?

[Dave]

Perhaps  a bad alternator/rectifier?  An internal leakage, soft short in the TIPM?    Two amps is a lot, is that continuous or just for a few seconds (inrush) when you connect the meter.  Try disconnecting the alternator and positive cable to the TIPM.  Check winch power wiring, anything else you've installed that doesn't goe through the TIPM.

[fiend]

2 hours ago, Dave said:

Perhaps  a bad alternator/rectifier?  An internal leakage, soft short in the TIPM?    Two amps is a lot, is that continuous or just for a few seconds (inrush) when you connect the meter.  Try disconnecting the alternator and positive cable to the TIPM.  Check winch power wiring, anything else you've installed that doesn't goe through the TIPM.

Alternator was putting out good voltage. Anyway, that shouldn’t stop the vehicle from starting up, particularly if jumped off another vehicle, which I have tried. 
 

I run all my accessories off a second battery. I’ve disconnected that entire system and still have the problem. 
 

if I disconnect the positive cable at the TIPM, won’t the entire Jeep be dead? Maybe I’m not following your thought.  

[Dave]

I was thinking that if there's a bad diode in the alternator it could shunt current from the battery when off, but still output voltage when running.  As far as the TIPM, if you disconnect the battery from it and your mystery current dissappears then that would point to an internal TIPM issue since you've already tried pulling all the fuses.

[fiend]

16 minutes ago, Dave said:

I was thinking that if there's a bad diode in the alternator it could shunt current from the battery when off, but still output voltage when running.  As far as the TIPM, if you disconnect the battery from it and your mystery current dissappears then that would point to an internal TIPM issue since you've already tried pulling all the fuses.

Gotcha on the second point. To be honest I’ve back burnered the parasitic draw issue and am focusing on the no start issue. I suspect they are unrelated, other than that in trying to diagnose the draw problem I screwed something up that created the no start problem.  I have had the draw for months.  The no start just cropped up yesterday.  

[Dave]

Does your 2010 have TIP start or do you crank it til it starts.  Is it no crank or just no start?

[fiend]

3 minutes ago, Dave said:

Does your 2010 have TIP start or do you crank it til it starts.  Is it no crank or just no start?

What is TIP start?

 

I doesn’t crank. Just clicks. Like a dead battery or bad ground at the battery. But it’s exactly the same thing if I try to jump it from a running vehicle. So it’s not a bad battery.  And not a bad ground, at the battery at least. 

[Dave]

TIP start you just momentarily turn the key, the computer does the rest.

 

Maybe your starter is bad.

[fiend]

29 minutes ago, Dave said:

TIP start you just momentarily turn the key, the computer does the rest.

 

Maybe your starter is bad.

I don’t think I have TIP start. You keep the key turned until the engine starts. 
 

I took the starter off yesterday and tested the solenoid and motor directly off the battery. Both activated. I suppose the power cable to the starter could be bad but it seems doubtful that would just suddenly fail. If there was a short the battery would die pretty much instantly with that much current. Not to mention the sparking and popping I’d probably hear.  And, the connection at the starter was tight and I made it tight again when I reinstalled the starter. 
 

just exceptionally frustrating 

[fiend]

Just tested the power cable to the starter.  Shows 12.6 volts.  

[Dave]

It looks like there's a starter relay in the TIPM / fuse box. #K3 according to this video.

 

[AJK]

Can you swap the relay Dave just posted with another to see if that is the issues?

[fiend]

3 hours ago, Dave said:

It looks like there's a starter relay in the TIPM / fuse box. #K3 according to this video.

 

Thanks. Relays 3 and 4 test functional.  Tested the rest and they too are functioning.  Swapped relays around. No difference. 

[Jdofmemi]

Thinking about this, have you tried jumper cables or a different battery cable straight to the starter?

 

I have had in the past an occasion on another vehicle where the positive battery cable to the starter corroded internally. 

There was no visible sign of a problem, and it would test at 12v nominal. When put under load though, it would drop to something around 3v. 

 

Painful to troubleshoot, much like what you are dealing with. 

 

[fiend]

15 minutes ago, Jdofmemi said:

Thinking about this, have you tried jumper cables or a different battery cable straight to the starter?

 

I have had in the past an occasion on another vehicle where the positive battery cable to the starter corroded internally. 

There was no visible sign of a problem, and it would test at 12v nominal. When put under load though, it would drop to something around 3v. 

 

Painful to troubleshoot, much like what you are dealing with. 

 

Thanks for the suggestion Jerry. I haven’t tried that but I’ve thought about it. I either need to put the battery back in the Jeep or I need a second set of jumper cables to do it. 
 

I’m not sure if you saw, but I did take out the starter and bench test it.  It’s functional.