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AJK's 17 Rubi


AJK

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If you call, I bet you can get just the mounts, minus the track bar mount, for less.  

 

The track bar mount is about $100, but it's hell for stout.

 

The way these joints wrap the axle, and are boxed top and bottom, they are at least two times stronger than anything else I've seen. 

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Getting there.

 

Got to adjust some shit still.

 

I can finally use all my down travel and still have more to go before the drive shafts binds.

 

Moving exhaust was a major benefit for the extra clearance. 

 

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13 minutes ago, AJK said:

Getting there.

 

Got to adjust some shit still.

 

I can finally use all my down travel and still have more to go before the drive shafts binds.

 

Moving exhaust was a major benefit for the extra clearance. 

 

20240317_134059.thumb.jpg.99e34f32c0c9b60ea9d623209d2b0a91.jpg

 

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Looks good!

 

I wish mine was moving this fast.

 

It may just be that angle, but it looks like you need a low profile grease zerk on the drag link, to keep it from getting smashed.

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Jdofmemi said:

Looks good!

 

I wish mine was moving this fast.

 

It may just be that angle, but it looks like you need a low profile grease zerk on the drag link, to keep it from getting smashed.

 

 

 

 

You are right. I need to figure out the clearance. Moving the axle 1/2 inch forward is now allow them to hit.

 

The tie rod used to sit behind that spot not now it's directly under it.

 

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I thought I posted, but it got lost 🤷

 

What I ran into is every time you get clearance in one place, you lose it and cause problems somewhere else.

 

You just need to find the best compromise for what you are looking for. 

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28 minutes ago, Weebz said:

Getting there!!   If changing a zerk is your biggest problem I’d be celebrating.  Lol. 

LOL, no you can't see but the pass side only has 1/4 of shock shaft at bump and driver have like 2 1/2 inches so its causing issue.

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2 hours ago, Weebz said:

Because mounts aren’t set right or because one side can move for their than the other?

No the RPM kit allows me to move my axle forward without the CO hitting the bracket like it did before. Moving it forward is now allowing the tie rod to bump into the drag link.  Before it would go up and sit right next to it.

 

Was hoping to push front end out but I don't think that is going to happen.

 

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Not done yet but getting there. Everything has been cycled and welded in its new home. Gonna get the axle back under this week and start the final process. Overall this kit was pretty straight forward to install. I know I am going to have to trim my Genright bumper since the axle has been moved forward almost a inch. Still need to install Bumps, but that's last.

 

I am a learned by Youtube welder, so do pick on me too much.

 

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1 hour ago, AJK said:

Not done yet but getting there. Everything has been cycled and welded in its new home. Gonna get the axle back under this week and start the final process. Overall this kit was pretty straight forward to install. I know I am going to have to trim my Genright bumper since the axle has been moved forward almost a inch. Still need to install Bump but that's last.

 

I am a learned by Youtube welder, so do pick on me too much.

 

20240322_194026.thumb.jpg.c06e1bbe8956c86ef65122328a263619.jpg 

 

20240322_205834.thumb.jpg.4503c8566f3b4ace77af9a4824d4e4f2.jpg

 

20240322_205842.thumb.jpg.7c7a3fae8b43ea4de6291cc34f7b9682.jpg

 

20240323_105046.thumb.jpg.356e4e8fa9807b05b4cff556611b296b.jpg

 

20240323_163256.thumb.jpg.3b569d89277884052cb3f64570d5a3cb.jpg

 

20240323_163312.thumb.jpg.3edb9a1b84c7ff6651ca1dcea6764c78.jpg

 

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nice work. Looks great.

cant wait until the day I get into shock / coil towers like that…

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Ohhhh weeeeeee baby. All 12 inches.....First time I have ever said that.

 

And just a tab of Driveline bind. I can still roll it over by hand but will limit strap this go around.

 

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12 hours ago, Nice Little Jeep said:

Are using the same synergy track bar?

Right now I have the RPM one mocked up. It clears a little better over the Synergy becuse there are jhonny joints on each end and you can put the bar where you want it. I would perfer the Synergy if it clears and I plan to test it tonight.

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2 hours ago, AJK said:

Right now I have the RPM one mocked up. It clears a little better over the Synergy becuse there are jhonny joints on each end and you can put the bar where you want it. I would perfer the Synergy if it clears and I plan to test it tonight.

I started with the synergy track bar and it worked ok but could pinch the PSC lines at full stuff. I swapped to the RPM bar, which provided more clearance. Keep in mind though that I’m running a super duty 60, which is different from your axle. So maybe the synergy bar will work for you. 

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1 hour ago, fiend said:

I started with the synergy track bar and it worked ok but could pinch the PSC lines at full stuff. I swapped to the RPM bar, which provided more clearance. Keep in mind though that I’m running a super duty 60, which is different from your axle. So maybe the synergy bar will work for you. 

Good to know. Yeah it came really close before. I run my PSC lines to the pass tire then 90 back up the trackbar so they would not be in that area anymore. Kinda of like GR does.

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2 hours ago, AJK said:

Good to know. Yeah it came really close before. I run my PSC lines to the pass tire then 90 back up the trackbar so they would not be in that area anymore. Kinda of like GR does.

Yeah I redid my lines that way too. Same time I swapped to the RPM TB. You just need to flex/stuff it in every possible permutation and see how things look.  If your synergy bar has the “dual durometer” bushings just be aware they’re garbage. At least the Johnny joints in the rpm are serviceable. 

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